IBO speed, draw weight, draw length and arrow weight — or just punch in your chronograph reading if you have one. A chrono reading is always more accurate. Save up to 8 setups for different bows or arrow configurations.
We estimate your real arrow speed using the ATA formula, accounting for accessories like peep sight, kisser button, silencers, and drop-away rest. Altitude correction adjusts for thinner air at high-elevation hunts.
Precise sight movement values are calculated for every yardage increment, scaled exactly to your sight radius. The physics is the same formula pros use. Unlock 80–100 yard marks with a one-time NZ$5 purchase.
Download the PDF, print at 100% scale (no scaling to fit!), cut and stick it to your sight. Or export a label tape PNG for a Brother label printer — sized exactly to your label roll width. Verify at the range before season.
Here is exactly how I built my tape for a tahr hunt above Wanaka in the Southern Alps. I live at about 300m elevation. The hunting ground sits at roughly 1,500 to 1,800m. That difference matters for the tape.
| Bow | PSE compound |
| IBO speed | 330 fps |
| Draw weight | 65 lb |
| Draw length | 28 in |
| Arrow weight | 420 gr |
| Sight radius | 88 mm |
| Home elevation | 300 m |
| Hunt elevation | 1,600 m |
| Temperature | 8 C |
| Speed at home | 287 fps |
| Speed at 1,600 m | 291 fps |
| 60 yd mark shift | ~3 mm higher |
That 3mm shift at 60 yards does not sound like much. At 300 fps arrow speed it translates to roughly 4 inches of impact difference at that range. On a tahr with a kill zone the size of a dinner plate, that is the difference between a clean pass-through and a gut shot. The altitude correction costs nothing to add and I never skip it.
After building the tape I print it on my Brother label printer at 18mm width, peel and stick it to my sight housing, then verify at 20, 40, and 60 yards at the range before I drive to the mountains. Those three distances take about 20 minutes. If they are on, I trust the rest.
Build your tape the same way