A movable single-pin sight paired with a custom sight tape is one of the most accurate distance systems in bowhunting. But getting there — from unboxing the sight to having a verified, field-ready tape — involves several steps that trip up new users. This is the complete walkthrough.
What You'll Need Before You Start
- Your compound bow with the sight already mounted (or ready to mount)
- A chronograph, or your bow's estimated arrow speed
- Total arrow weight in grains (weigh your finished arrows if possible)
- A tape measure
- Access to a range with at least 50 yards
- A printer (for the sight tape)
- Scissors and a piece of clear tape or the adhesive from your sight's tape track
Step 1 — Mount and Position the Sight
Mount the sight to your bow's sight mounting holes using the provided hardware. Most single-pin sights attach via a dovetail or a two-bolt plate. Snug the bolts but don't fully tighten yet — you'll need to adjust the housing position during zeroing.
Set the sight radius: this is the distance from the bow's pivot/axle to the sight pin. A longer radius (8–10") gives you finer adjustments and a more precise tape, while a shorter radius (5–6") keeps the profile compact. Measure with a tape measure from the sight mounting point on the riser to the housing, then enter this number exactly when generating your tape — even small errors here shift the mark spacing.
Step 2 — Set Your Zero Distance
Stand at your chosen zero distance. 20 yards is standard for most bowhunters — it's easy to confirm and gives a reliable starting point for your tape's ballistic curve. If you mostly hunt in dense woods and never shoot past 40 yards, a 30-yard zero also works fine; just make sure to enter the same distance when generating your tape.
Shoot a group of three arrows. Note where they hit relative to the pin:
- Left/right of pin: Adjust windage (horizontal) — "follow the arrow" — if the group is right of the pin, move the sight right.
- Above pin: Move the sight up
- Below pin: Move the sight down
Repeat until the group consistently centres on the pin. This is your zero. Don't touch the sight position after this step — your tape will be built from this anchor point.
Tip: Once zeroed, note which physical sight position (number on the housing, or a mark you make yourself) corresponds to your zero. This makes re-installation easier if you ever remove the tape or sight.
Step 3 — Measure Your Arrow Speed
The most important input for your sight tape is arrow speed. Run three arrows through a chronograph and average the readings. This is your true fps — the number to enter when generating your tape.
If you don't have a chronograph, estimate: your bow's IBO speed (usually printed on the bow or in specs) minus 10–15 fps gives a reasonable real-world estimate under standard hunting conditions (70 lb draw weight, 30" draw, ~420 grain arrow). If your setup is heavier or lighter, adjust accordingly.
| Adjustment from IBO Conditions | Estimated Speed Change |
|---|---|
| Draw length 1" shorter than 30" | −10 fps |
| Draw weight 5 lb less than 70 lb | −8 fps |
| Arrow 50 grains heavier | −3 fps |
| D-loop and peep added | −3 to −5 fps |
Step 4 — Generate Your Sight Tape
With your speed, arrow weight, sight radius, and zero distance in hand, open Sight Tape Gen. Enter each value into the corresponding field. The generator will immediately show a preview of your tape and a table of yardage marks.
Select the yardage range you want — most bowhunters go 20–70 yards, 3D shooters often go to 80 or 100. If you're hunting at altitude or in significantly different weather than where you zeroed, expand the Environmental Settings section and enter elevation, temperature, and barometric pressure for full density altitude correction.
Click print. The tape will be sized and labelled correctly for your setup.
Step 5 — Attach the Tape
- Cut the tape along the printed cut lines.
- Dial your sight back to the zeroed position you confirmed in Step 2.
- Align the zero mark on the tape (e.g., "20") with the indicator at its current zeroed position.
- Slide the tape into the tape track channel, or affix it with the adhesive backing or a small piece of clear tape.
- Confirm it's flat, straight, and the zero mark stays aligned as you move the sight dial.
Common mistake: Attaching the tape while the sight is not at the zeroed position. Always confirm the sight is at zero before aligning the tape — otherwise every mark will be off by the same offset.
Step 6 — Verify at 40 or 50 Yards
This step determines whether your tape is accurate or needs a speed correction. Dial to 40 yards, shoot a group of three arrows:
- Group hits centre target: Tape is accurate — you're done.
- Group hits consistently HIGH: Your actual arrow speed is faster than you entered. Regenerate with higher fps (try adding 10–15 fps) and re-attach.
- Group hits consistently LOW: Your actual arrow speed is slower. Regenerate with lower fps.
- Group hits left or right: This is a windage issue, not a tape issue — re-check your sight's windage setting.
One verification session is usually enough to confirm the tape, especially if you chronographed your speed accurately. If you estimated speed, you may need one iteration to dial it in.
Step 7 — Field Notes for Hunters
With a verified tape attached, your single-pin sight system is ready to hunt. A few practical points:
- Print a backup tape before every hunt — tapes get damaged, especially in rain or when crawling through brush
- Mark your sight housing with the zero position as a reference in case the tape shifts
- If hunting at high elevation — more than 4,000 ft above where you zeroed — generate an altitude-corrected tape before leaving home
- Recheck your 40-yard mark at the start of each new season to confirm the tape hasn't drifted
Setup summary
Step 1: Mount sight, set radius, measure the radius accurately.
Step 2: Zero at 20 yards — confirm with a 3-shot group.
Step 3: Chronograph arrow speed, or estimate from bow specs.
Step 4: Generate tape with speed, weight, radius, and zero distance.
Step 5: Attach tape aligned to zeroed indicator position.
Step 6: Verify at 40–50 yards. Adjust speed estimate if needed.
Generate your sight tape now
Enter your arrow speed, weight, and sight radius. Sight Tape Gen produces a print-ready tape in seconds — no account needed.
Build my tape →Frequently Asked Questions
What if my arrows hit high at 40 yards but I don't have a chronograph?
Increase your entered arrow speed by 10–15 fps, regenerate the tape, re-attach, and re-verify. Each 10 fps increase tightens the mark spacing slightly and shifts the 40-yard mark. Repeat until the 40-yard group centres. Once you're dialled in, your effective speed is whatever produced the accurate tape — and you can use that number for future tapes.
Can I use the same tape with a different sight of the same model?
Not reliably. Sight radius and pin housing dimensions vary slightly between individual units. Regenerate a tape for each sight using that sight's measured radius.
What is the best zero distance for a single-pin sight?
20 yards is the most common zero for bowhunters and provides the most versatile tape coverage from 20 to 80+ yards. It's also easy to verify. Some 3D shooters zero at 30 or even 40 yards to tighten up their close-range accuracy and extend effective range at longer distances — but this is a personal choice based on your style of shooting.
How do I know my sight radius measurement is correct?
Measure from the riser's sight mounting surface to the centre of the sight housing or pin block. If your sight has a sliding mount, measure with the housing at its default position for hunting. An error of even half an inch can shift the mark spacing enough to cause a miss at 60 yards, so use a proper tape measure rather than estimating by eye.